MAY 15, 2007
VOLUME 4 NO. 9

PHYSICIAN LIFE

NS docs hope gastropub revives
town's spirits

Drinking buddies bring quality
watering hole to ex-dry village



Three of the six principal investors for The Port Bistro check out the competition at a pub in nearby Coldbrook, NS. From left to right are Dr Chris Maltby, ENT surgeon, Dr Bruce McLeod, head of emergency at Valley Regional Hospital, and radiologist Dr David Acton
Photo courtesy Dr Bruce McLeod

The idea was conceived, appropriately enough, over a few drinks. Four Nova Scotia doctors — emerg doc Bruce McLeod and his wife Lois Bowden, an FP; radiologist David Acton and ENT Chris Maltby — joined a geologist friend, Allen Sheito, and his wife Jennie, at their home for what had become something of a regular Friday martini group. A conversation started about a hole in their community — a watering hole, that is.

You see, their town — a pretty heritage village of 1,000 souls called Port Williams in the picturesque Annapolis Valley — is a dry community. So finding a "local" that offered exactly what the group wanted — good food and good beer — was pretty much impossible.

But now, almost three years later, the six have been joined by another 37 investors — 36 of the 43 investors are physicians — to build a "gastropub,"a term that refers to a British-style pub that serves high-quality food.

"We liked the restaurants in the area," insists Dr McLeod, who heads up the emergency department at Valley Regional Hospital in nearby Kentville, "but you could always critique this or that. There wasn't a restaurant that was perfect. I don't think there ever is."

The sextet knew Port Williams' dry status was a hurdle they'd have to overcome. Only a plebiscite would change that status. Mr Sheito — who McLeod says was the only one to take that Friday evening conversation over martinis three years ago seriously — called up the Nova Scotia Liquor Commission to get the ball rolling. Two years ago, and with a narrow win (the local Baptist church was reportedly the last holdout), Port Williams become a wet community.

Since then, the six principal investors have been involved in every aspect of the project from public consultations about rezoning, meeting with engineers, hiring a chef and, of course, raising the $1.2 million for the project (they have about $1 million so far).

VILLAGE VISION
But the gastropub was about more than just creating a tailor-made hangout for its shareholders. Maple Leaf Foods had closed a mill in Port Williams, which meant not only a loss of jobs, but a loss of the community's tax base. Dr McLeod says they hope the gastropub, which has been christened The Port Bistro, will be a catalyst for more development.

"We're envisioning more than just us — a butcher, a baker, small boutiques could come in," he explains. "I hope we have a viable business that, for one, provides some amount of return, although that's not the primary goal. But mostly I hope we'll employ a bunch of people in the community and provide a tax base. It's a way for us to give back to the community."

He says they are also pushing the concept of "food miles," so many of the ingredients will come from producers located in the Annapolis Valley.

"That's, in part, how we sold this investment. Most of us have RRSPs, with money invested in mutual funds or stocks, but they could be anywhere around the world. Why not put your $5,000 or $10,000 in the local community?" says Dr McLeod.

One supplier is as close to home as you can possibly get: Dr Acton has a farm that raises grass-fed beef, which will definitely be on the menu.

ROOM WITH A VIEW
The Port Bistro is now becoming a reality. The foundation is set in the spring-thawed red mud. It's located in what is a more industrial part of the village, surrounded by a feed store, the now-defunct mill and a manufacturer of timber frame homes. The V-shaped design will include a pub, a kitchen and formal dining room, a facility for private functions called The Tide Room, and a 1,000-square foot patio overlooking the neighbouring university town of Wolfville. The building sits just above the banks of the Cornwallis River, which rises and falls with the world's highest tides from the Bay of Fundy. There will also be an on-site microbrewery operated as a separate business by a Nova Scotia brewer.

Dr Acton took an active role in creating the modern yet casual design. "After spending over 30 years in pubs, you learn what you like," he jokes.

BOUND TO BOOZE
Dr McLeod expects the pub's grand opening to happen in October or November. By Dr McLeod's calculations, if each investor brought two friends each, twice a month, they'd produce about 20% of the operation's revenue. A gala opening for the general public would soon follow.

And while he — or the other MDs - don't plan on quitting their day jobs, Dr McLeod admits many of them, including himself, have harboured a secret wish to work in a pub. He expects that he'll pull the occasional pint or two.

"My brother always said one of his favourite jobs of his life was bartender," he says. "Maybe I'm a bit too old for that stuff, but my son Stuart just turned 19, so maybe it would be fun for the two of us to work on a Friday night."

Dr Acton, who worked at a Dublin pub during his university days, says he's not that eager to pick up a tray just yet, but will be more than happy to sit on the sidelines. "I'll be there in a supervisory role many times a week, I'm sure," he says with a grin.

 

 

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